Issue No. 03, Winter 2007: ONSEN
In the depths of winter, as Hamamatsus renowned, blustery wind (
karakkaze) blows outside the door, there is no better way to pass an afternoon than with a dip in the warm waters of an onsen (hot spring). This uniquely Japanese pastime has existed for over 2,000 years, and is often the highlight of any winter visit to the country.
A traditional wooden bath overlooking
Lake Hamana, Kanzanji Onsen
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Onsen are natural hot springs, rich in minerals, which are found in abundance throughout Japan thanks to the many volcanoes on the archipelago. Both onsen found by drilling underground, and those where the water wells up naturally, exist among the more than 1,800 hot spring resorts in Japan. It is said that some of the first onsen were discovered by hunters who followed their wounded prey to the waters where they went to nurse their wounds. The earliest references to onsen appear in ancient texts such as the
Nihon Shoki (720) and the
Manyōshū (a poetry anthology completed in the 8
th
century), in the context of purification rites and Imperial visits
to onsen. In medieval times, warriors would go to onsen to recuperate after battles, and it was only during the Edo period (1603-1867) that guides to Japans onsen were first published and bathing became popularized. Following the development of science and technology in the Meiji period (1868-1912), extensive medical research was conducted into the healing properties of the mineral-rich onsen waters, which are thought to be effective for a range of symptoms.
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Kanzanji Onsen, Lake Hamana
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Nowadays, onsen resorts are a popular destination among families, couples, old and young, for a day trip or an overnight stay. Each onsen has its own unique atmosphere, from isolated rural resorts, as depicted in Kawabatas
Yukiguni (
Snow Country), to neon-lit suburban hot spring centres, complete with jet streams and Jacuzzis! Unlike Western-style bathing, you clean yourself by showering before entering the onsen, which is communal,
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A rotenburo (outdoor bath)
overlooking Lake Hamana
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with the bath at Sukayu onsen in Aomori large enough to accommodate 1,000 bathers! Bathing is usually single-sex, although mixed bathing and family baths also exist. The baths themselves also vary greatly, from candle-lit wooden tubs to the ever-popular
rotenburo (outdoor bath), where you can enjoy beautiful natural surroundings as you soak.
Hamamatsu boasts one of the top five onsen in Shizuoka Prefecture, Kanzanji onsen. The resort, located on the shores of Lake Hamana, takes its name from Kanzanji temple, which, dating from 810, is located on the hillside overlooking the lake. Onsen waters have existed there since 1958, and the resorts hotels welcome approximately 550,000 guests per year. The waters, which are said to be effective for rheumatism, diseases of the nervous system and a range of other symptoms, bubble up throughout Kanzanji, which also has three
ashiyu (foot baths) located around the town for pedestrians to soothe their tired feet. There are a whole range of baths on offer at the various hotels, including
rotenburo with unrivalled views over Lake Hamana.
One of the attractions of onsen resorts is the chance to enjoy a stay at a ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn, where kimono-clad staff will serve exquisite cuisine to your room before rolling out your futon for the night. Kanzanji boasts 20
ryokan, which can accommodate up to 4,000 guests, where visitors can enjoy the local delicacies of
unagi (eel) and
fugu (blowfish), at a fraction of Tokyo prices. Onsen
tamago, eggs boiled in the onsen waters, or onsen
manjū a steamed sweet, also make a delicious snack.
Onsen can be enjoyed year-round, and Kanzanji offers a whole host of attractions for visitors throughout the year, notably beautiful
sakura (cherry blossom) in spring, and water-sports and weekly firework displays over the lake in summer. Visitors can enjoy the flower park,
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Kanzanji Onsen Fireworks over
Lake Hamana
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local amusement park or even zoo, before they take a dip in the onsen waters. Recently, an onsen meguri ticket was introduced, allowing visitors to enjoy four different onsen for just ¥1000. The resort, which attracts visitors from both Japan and abroad, is currently in the third year of a five year redevelopment plan. With the opening of Mount Fuji Shizuoka Airport in 2009, Kanzanji onsen looks forward to entertaining more visitors from overseas in future.
ONSEN IN HAMAMATSU
For more information on Kanzanji and other onsen in Hamamatsu please visit Hamamatsu Daisuki Nets English homepage:
http://hamamatsu-daisuki.net/english/sightseeing/top.html
Or contact the following hot spring resorts:
Kanzanji Hot Springs
TEL: 81-(0)53-487-0152 (Kanzanji Hot Springs Tourism Assoc.)
Bentenjima Hot Springs
TEL: 81-(0)53-592-0757 (Maisaka Tourism Assoc.)
Oku Hamanako Hot Springs/Mikkabi Hot Springs
TEL: 81-(0)53-524-1112 (Mikkabi Tourism Assoc.)
Yuto Hot Springs
TEL: 81-(0)53-592-2222 (Hamanako Royal Hotel)