HAMAMATSU CITY

“In spring, it is the dawn . . . In summer, it is the night.” So begins The Pillow Book, a work written in Japan during the Heian period (764-1185). Its author, Sei Shonagon, was a lady-in-waiting for the Imperial Court, known for her biting and often controversial wit. Her opening line, which speaks so assuredly of the superior qualities of each particular season, sparked a debate that still remains unresolved today: which moments best mark the year? What things are unique to a nation?

Examples of yukata

If Sei Shonagon were alive today, she might be surprised to learn that the yukata, or light cotton kimono, has become a popular icon of summer among men and women alike. While yukata have their origins in the Heian period, it wasn’t until the Tokugawa period (1600-1868) hundreds of years later that they found their way to the general public. Made out of a breathable material perfect for combating heat and humidity, yukata were first used as robes donned casually after a bath; as time passed, they gradually evolved into popular clothing for festivals and parties as well as for home use.

With a mild climate favorable to cotton and its strong industrial base, the Hamamatsu region came to foster a long and rich tradition of textiles. During the Meiji period (1868 – 1912), an innovative style of dyeing known as chusen came to dominate local yukata production. In the chusen method, resist paste is applied to fabric that’s been overlaid with a hand-made paper pattern. Dye is then carefully poured over the material, with different colors separated by an extra paste barrier; after the dye has soaked through, the fabric is washed in running water and allowed to dry in the sun. A few finishing touches, and voila! You have a beautifully printed cloth that’s ready for tailoring.

The dyeing process, and an example of a multi-colored design

A practiced eye can spot a true chusen-style yukata from a machine-made imitation instantly. For one, the meticulous dyeing process preserves a softness to the cotton material that feels gentle against the skin. For another, the fact that the cloth is dyed by hand results in a rich depth of color rarely captured by machines, and subtle shades and gradations as unique as the patterns themselves. And because the dye is allowed to soak through the cloth, you get a yukata patterned on both its surface and underside; for this reason, the chusen method has come to snag the attention of quilt-making circles around the world.

Today, Hamamatsu prides itself on its textiles, and is now in fact the #1 producer of chusen yukata in Japan. Groups such as the Hamamatsu Yukata Promotion Association and the Hamamatsu Textiles Dyers’ Cooperative are helping keep the old traditions alive, even while encouraging modern innovations and designs. This blend of old and new is perhaps most vividly represented by the various summer festivals held downtown every year. These events epitomize the international, pioneering spirit of the city: you might find yourself dancing to a wild samba melody punctuated with the beats of a traditional Japanese drum, or eating a Turkish gyro spiced with Japanese wasabi dressing. Or why not see who wins the Yukata Contest? Last year, an American teenager collected one of the prizes, her yukata elegantly printed in a traditional pattern of flowers.